Once again drawing inspiration from both fashion and the personal style of Saint Laurent’s founder, Yves, designer Anthony Vaccarello brings to the Spring-Summer 2025 runway designs that exude a strong sense of “powerful femininity.”
Eight years since his debut as Saint Laurent’s Creative Director, Anthony Vaccarello once again chose the Left Bank headquarters at 37 Rue de Bellechasse as the stage for the Spring-Summer 2025 collection. Throughout the show, models strutted with captivating, strong energy on a catwalk draped in Yves Klein blue (a deep blue shade honoring the famous Marrakech garden in Morocco of the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent), with gilded architectural details suspended in mid-air. All of this created a symbolic stage for Saint Laurent’s latest collection: luxurious, daring, and full of strength — an unmistakable tribute to the power dressing and decisive energy of modern women.
Under the Parisian night rain, Vaccarello and Saint Laurent offered us a fresh perspective on power dressing, combining “powerful femininity” with alluring charm through eclecticism and the personal style of fashion legend Yves Saint Laurent. The collection draws its primary inspiration from the founder Yves Saint Laurent and his muse, Loulou de la Falaise. From sharp oversized suits, masculine bomber jackets, and authoritative trench coats to flowing bohemian styles, and finally, glamorous blouses with large gemstone buttons paired with lace-trimmed mini skirts, Vaccarello explored different moods and attitudes to reflect the image of Saint Laurent’s “multifaceted, multi-styled” woman.
The show began with creations that strongly reflect Yves Saint Laurent’s personal style, featuring his signature thick-framed, slightly “heavy” glasses and suits inspired by the iconic Le Smoking tuxedo, as well as his philosophy on “masculine” tailoring for women. The tailored outfits appeared in classic Yves shades of charcoal, black, or plum, with double-breasted blazers, wide-leg high-waisted trousers that were soft yet sharply tailored, avoiding any sense of sloppiness, paired with elegantly tucked-in shirts. Vaccarello didn’t stop at merely reimagining the iconic tuxedo; he introduced new “complexity” to the design by layering the suits with oversized trench coats, strong military-inspired leather jackets, or silk bombers, creating a unique contrast in design and materials.
After the tailored suits, the collection takes a slight shift with the revival of boho-chic style, featuring flowing tiered chiffon dresses and tunic blouses with paisley prints paired with floor-length maxi skirts and tough biker leather jackets. These designs were styled with accessories like beaded necklaces and bracelets, paying tribute to Loulou de la Falaise, the muse and closest collaborator of Yves Saint Laurent. While these fashion creations are more understated, they maintain a sense of elegance and reflect Vaccarello’s ability to balance masculine and feminine energy.
The finale of the show marked a significant fashion turning point in the Spring-Summer 2025 collection, with 15 designs inspired by the classic style of the 1980s. Through the bold and sensual fashion lens of Saint Laurent’s Creative Director, and with the use of fabrics like brocade and lace in vibrant tones, the final chapter of the collection showcased the most dazzling looks. Sparkling cropped jackets with delicate floral patterns, seductive lace tops worn beneath mini dresses with wide necklines, highlighted the contrast between colors and fabrics. The use of these striking, contrasting hues was not overwhelming; rather, it allowed Vaccarello to convey a fresh take on women’s fashion—continuing the refined and masterful approach that Monsieur Laurent always carefully honed and expressed.
Each design in the collection is fully accessorized with items such as sunglasses, wide ties, or colorful beaded necklaces, chunky gold bracelets, and intricately embellished sparkling shoes. Together, these elements create an overall look that exudes power and control while also being captivating and elegant. In a fashion world that increasingly leans towards minimalism, Vaccarello’s decision to embrace a “complete” and more maximalist style in this collection feels counterintuitive yet works like “magic” for Saint Laurent’s Spring-Summer 2025 lineup.
A notable highlight of the Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2025 collection is that each of the 49 outfits showcased was named after important and special women, not only to Monsieur Yves and the Saint Laurent brand but also to designer Anthony Vaccarello. Names such as Betty (Catroux), Carla (Bruni), Katoucha, Bettina, and Iman were featured in this tribute.
The Saint Laurent Spring-Summer 2025 collection by Vaccarello is not merely a regular fashion show; more than anything, it is a return to the roots to honor the brand’s founder, Yves Saint Laurent, and the “fashion house” he meticulously built. Additionally, the collection becomes a fashion statement, portraying the muse of Saint Laurent as well as the fashion philosophy of this iconic French maison.